Touching the Past

by Dr Val Turner (Regional Archaeologist, Shetland)

Probably the most significant archaeological site in Shetland, Jarlshof, situated at the southernmost point in Shetland Zoom Probably the most significant archaeological site in Shetland, Jarlshof, situated at the southernmost point in Shetland Shetland today is intimately shaped by the past: most obviously by the Vikings, but they only arrived here 1,000 years ago. Shetland’s story starts 6,000 years before the islands became known to Scandinavians.

The first settlers came north along the Scottish coast, chasing islands where they could see from one to the next. The earliest evidence comes from the South Mainland, where people would have first arrived. The earliest human bones which survive came from a cist burial containing the remains of 18 people, both adults and children, and was found where the control tower for Sumburgh Airport now stands.

As people became established, they farmed and fished, and the remains of their houses, fields and burial cairns are scattered through the hills of the west side. The excavated remains at the Scord of Brouster and the oversized house, the ‘temple’ at Stanydale, are excellent examples, but walkers anywhere in the area are likely to trip over the remains of stone dykes which were first built 3-5,000 years ago. There are good, easily accessible cairns at Punds Water and Islesburgh.

Around 3,000 years ago, people began to use heated stones either to boil water or to create steam (depending on whether water was poured over the stones, or stones were placed into water). The mystery as to whether these were cooking places, used for textiles, or even as saunas, is still being investigated, but there are over 300 of them scattered through the islands. Meanwhile, food was stored in underground chambers – ‘souterrains’ – in order to keep it cooler over the winter.

There are no true stone circles in the islands, but there are enclosures surrounded by stone, which might be cremation cemeteries. At one of these, Hjaltadans in Fetlar, the legend is that a fiddler and his wife (the two central stones) and the trow (Shetland troll) dancers, were all turned to stone when caught unawares by the rising sun!

Mousa Broch, the best example of an Iron Age broch tower in Europe Zoom Mousa Broch, the best example of an Iron Age broch tower in Europe About 2,000 years ago, people began to live in groups and apparently felt the need to defend themselves. They created massive thick-walled towers which, as Mousa Broch demonstrates, sometimes stood as much as 43ft high. The walls were around 16ft thick at ground level, but higher up were built as two skins, linked by stones which formed galleries. The top was accessible via a staircase situated between the two walls. The brochs were usually surrounded by banks and ditches – the ditch at Old Scatness was at least 13ft deep and 23ft wide, with stone lining it to support the sides.

The Iron Age broch of Clickimin lit up at night Zoom The Iron Age broch of Clickimin lit up at night Archaeologists have long recognised that groups of brochs may have operated together: Mousa faces the Broch of Burland on the mainland and together they command a view of the Sound between them. Now it is beginning to look as if all the brochs may have been part of a continuous chain, the brochs being cunningly placed in the landscape in order to take advantage of unexpected gaps between hills. Many are coastal and so gaps in the network might be explained by coastal erosion (unlike the rest of Britain, Shetland has been sinking ever since the end of the last Ice Age). Some are located in good agricultural land, others are in barren locations. The Old Scatness excavations demonstrated that brochs were built in Shetland between BC400-200; earlier than previously thought. This suggests that broch building started here, in the north, and moved southwards rather than vice versa. Villages of huge single-walled round houses grew up around brochs in more fertile locations (e.g. Old Scatness and Jarlshof).

Although lower, the diameters were sometimes greater than those of the brochs and show incredible skill in drystone building.

Towards the end of the Iron Age, known as the Pictish period, buildings became smaller, and more reliant on stone, without the internal timber platforms which had existed inside the brochs. Known as ‘wheelhouses’, the buildings had a central hearth surrounded by a series of rooms, each of which was covered by a stone, beehive-shaped, roof. They also used small buildings made from a series of cells, whether a string of rooms or arranged in a clover-shape around a hearth. Christianity came into the islands at this time as did an accomplished style of craftsmanship. The Scatness bear and the Papil monks’ stone are highly sophisticated stone carvings and the St Ninian’s Isle treasure includes 28 intricate silver objects: bowls, brooches and horse equipment amongst them.

Jarlshof. Zoom Jarlshof. When the Vikings arrived in Shetland, they recognised aspects of home, particularly the soft soapstone which they used to make bowls, lamps and other objects. There are several quarries throughout Shetland, the biggest at Cunningsburgh in the South Mainland. How violent their arrival was is a matter of debate. However, Unst, Britain’s most northerly island and the gateway to the Viking world, has a greater density of rural longhouses than anywhere else in the world. Excavation has shown that they vary considerably in form. The Vikings have left their mark on Shetland life today: the laws, the dialect, place names and the way of life all reflect the Scandinavian impact on the islands.

You are free to roam and explore the archaeology of the islands, an adventure which may take you into the remoter hills or along beautiful beaches, but please remember that it is an offence to disturb sites in any way.